Nashville
- The Haves Experience 2003
Sunday
18th May
Hooray - house tidy, children with grandparents, dog with friend,
keys with neighbour and taxi comes on time - fabulous start. After
a really good flight on American Airways (yes - that extra legroom
is worth it) we arrive at Chez Bob Cheevers in Nashville in good spirits
-collect hire car - quick glass of champagne and off to bed - (9pm
there - 3am here) seems like the right thing to do.
Monday
19th
Left the house in good spirits and decide to take a walk downtown
to get reacquainted with the area. Found a possible parking spot but
decided to move on to a better place - then discovered the new tri-band
mobile phone that we had specially bought so we could call home anytime
had DISAPPEARED. This marred the day somewhat, as it proved impossible
to find. Husband (v. concerned about open lines of communication to
Tibet or Australia) remembered we hadn't got a record of the number
with us in the car (it was on a label on the back on the phone in
case we needed to recite it to someone). Did some more exploring of
local music shops situated in endless acres of strip malls- wife grumpy
about music shops and strip malls - husband grumpy about phone and
the fact wife is grumpy about music shops and strip malls - Oh Dear!!!
Got back to Bob's house and found the number of the phone, which duly
rang from it's hiding place lodged under a ridge well hidden underneath
the driver's seat. Decided to check out Mike Henderson's blues band
at the Bluebird cafe that night - cheered up immediately music started
- excellent band - even wife who is not great blues fan was impressed.
The stand-up bass player sold eggs in the break for $2 a dozen - who
could resist!! Forgot phones, strip malls and music shops and had
a great time.
Tuesday
20th
Today is going to be better we decide so a relaxed morning is in order.
Decided to check out Hillsboro Village a very hip high street we enjoyed
finding on our last visit. On the way we decided to make a stop at
the Greenhills Wild Oats Store. A huge health food supermarket like
we don't have here, selling great food, feel good, get healthy, life
enhancing, be a better person products. Unfortunately when returning
to our hire car we found that courtesy one of their customers, the
wing mirror had been smashed off and was hanging by it's wire and
the paintwork was scratched and scored as well - hmmm there's irony
in there somewhere maybe?? After obligatory phone calls to police
for crime reference numbers etc and calls to the hire company, we
head back to the airport to exchange our car - only to find as we
had left our passports back at Bob's (yes of course we should have
had them, but Geoff was wearing shorts with shallow pockets, and hire
cars get broken into blah blah etc etc). We were turned away firmly
and had no choice but to make the trip back to Bob's to retrieve them
- through a huge traffic jam and a subsequent detour which ended up
taking longer than the traffic jam would have. Passports now present,
back we went to the airport, picked up new car and drove back again
- via a music shop! A pattern seems to be emerging here. Husband grumpy
at being found wanting in the passport situation - wife plain fed
up with everything - so there!!! Early that evening there was an opening
party for Ash Street, a new publishing house on Music Row and Bob
suggested we go - he knew the people who were hosting it so off we
went armed with appropriate names to gain access. It turned out to
be a lovely evening, we were made very welcome by the writers and
musicians we met and shared the Mexican food and beer laid out. The
party was held on a deck behind the house (which most of the offices
on Music Row are) and fairy lights were strung around the trees and
it all looked very pretty. We even met a couple of faces we knew -
it IS a small town. The 'cabaret' was a five piece accapella gospel
troupe who had driven all the way from Indiana to be there - they
sang two songs, said a prayer and left to drive back to Indiana- wow
- commitment or what!! With CD safely delivered in to correct hands
and promises to call and 'good to meet yous' said - we decided to
move on and check out the songwriter night at Douglas Corner. There
are lots of songwriter nights in Nashville but we had been told this
was a good one. Like a lot of Nashville venues this one looked kinda
small from the outside but was large and busy on the inside. Writers
were queuing up to play in groups of 4 at a time on stage in two rounds
per group (a 'round' meaning each writer on the stage playing one
song in turn). This is great system and one we should adopt here in
the UK. It mean you really look forward to the next song by the good
writers but don't get too glazed when things are not (being honest
here) 100% riveting. It also means the artists get support on stage
by their companions, with the other writers sometimes adding harmonies
or guitar parts. All it all it makes more of a show of it and is much
more enjoyable than an endless stream of solo artists (who can at
times can have a very lonely time during their 10 mins alone on stage).
We arrived too late to play - busy networking darlings! We didn't
mind though. We spent the rest of the evening checking out the other
writers and soaking up the atmosphere before heading home to Bob's
house - tired but happy - in possession of mobile phone and scratch
free car. .
Wednesday
21st
Had a sleep in this morning - the bird that had been serenading us
for the last two mornings (not a wood pigeon but equally as annoying!)
went elsewhere and found a more appreciative audience. Geoff's plan
today was to have his guitar set up by the famous guitar technician
Joe Glaser, rendering it a perfect playing machine for tomorrow's
set at The Broken Spoke. Bob had been explaining about the miraculous
diagnostic machine that had saved the life of his precious Martin
guitar, after it had been doomed to retirement by a less illustrious
technician. This is an amazing miracle, especially if you are a 'real'
guitarist, Bob and husband talk enthusiastically for - at least 2
hours (or maybe 20 mins depending on your perception) and wife tries
to look knowledgeable and keen to learn (secretly wondering if there'll
be time to look for bead shops later!!). Bob calls ahead and arranges
the hallowed visit. Armed with mobile phone safe and sound in wife's
bag and shiny new hire car free of scratches we set off. On our way
it became clear that the map we bought of 'Nashville and surrounding
districts' was great except for the times when it was wrong. This
makes for very difficult marital relations. When roads that are supposed
to be on the map are not and roads that are not supposed to split
in half do so without warning, it inevitably leads to disagreement
and fundamental questions over whether wife is being accused of incompetence.
This leads to discussions about basic issues of trust and remembering
that time back three years ago when husband misaccused wife and had
to apologise later (this was one of those times). No thanks to the
map, we eventually found our way and arrived about lunchtime, at last
delivering precious Telecaster into the hands of Mike the expert,
with the promise of a 5pm pick-up. Cheered up even more when the Yellow
Roof restaurant round the corner under the flyover (spotted by wife)
was endorsed by all guitar experts as being excellent. Great lunch
- Nashville is not hugely keen on catering for veggies like us it
seems, but the food here was great, definitely try it when you're
next in town. Also quite by chance were several unexpected bead shops
- marital harmony is restored. Back at 5pm as promised Geoff excitedly
goes in to collect guitar to find things running behind and cool guitar
techs seriously stressed out. We wait outside until we're called.
The moment arrives and husband goes in to collect the patient. The
list was longer than was obviously expected (husband seems a little
defensive about faults list wife thinks - but respectful of the experts
he accepts their opinion). Reversing the car out of the drive he fails
to notice the skilfully disguised mailbox hiding behind the tree at
the end of the driveway. Looking at the different colours of paint
on said mailbox, he decides it was probably already leaning drunkenly
at that angle before we hit it and it would be best to make a quiet
but rather guilty exit in our now 'not quite so scratch free' hire
car - Oops! We decide to try out 'The Orchid' for an early dinner
of Thai food before sneaking off to see 'A Mighty Wind' (Christopher's
Guests latest film - 'Spinal Tap' and 'Best in Show') not exactly
a Nashville experience of course, but none the less - jolly good fun!
But this is Nashville and the evenings not over yet. We decide to
check out The Station Inn on 12th - which is famous for it's bluegrass
music, so it seemed a fun place to head for. Once again - if Nashville
days can seem a struggle - Nashville nights are FAB. A pick-up band
was on the stage at the Station Inn and was halfway through their
first set when we arrived. With a set that moved quickly from bluegrass
through to jazz and then mixed them somewhere in the middle they brought
the house down. The guitar player was a virtuoso, the accordion player
played amazing sweet melodic solos like we'd never heard - but the
fiddle player defied description - a truly amazing player. They announced
their break and the audience got to their feet and went crazy. A standing
ovation at half time - doesn't get much better than that lads! Two
margaritas and a couple of beers later - wife feels most relaxed -
husband smiling - all's right with the world.
Thursday
22nd
Today is the day of our first gig and we decide before a couple of
run throughs (rehearsals OK!!) later on, we'd go gift hunting in 'Historic
Franklin'. Franklin featured heavily in the Civil War and has many
old original buildings (so the brochure said). We had a lovely touristy
morning (having navigated our way in spite of, rather than with, the
help of our trusty 'Nashville and surrounding district' map). First
port of call the Franklin Music Shop then (because God is good!!!)
they tell us to visit their other shop just across the way - the new
Interior Design shop - be rude not too while we're here wife tells
husband. Find great presents and move on... Franklin has lots of interior
design shops - revenge is sweet!!!!!! Later arrive back at Bob's ready
for our trip to the Broken Spoke. We had imagined a funky back street
bar with men in large hats and boots leaning against posts outside
in the street, especially after Bobs description of smoky noisy nights
where the crowd gets a bit wild and they like their country music
- 'real'. The Broken Spoke is actually a motel bar somewhere out near
the airport. This was not what we had expected. Walking through the
foyer there was a slight feeling of unreality. The bar itself was
almost empty when we arrived. There were three songwriters on the
stage and another three were at the tables in front. Bob seemed unconcerned
and introduced us to Debi Champion who hosts the writer's night (as
well as mixing the sound, adding excellent harmonies and being a respected
songwriter herself). We stashed our guitars as instructed, and while
we were waiting for our round Bob pointed out a friend of his Roger
Ferris who was about to take the stage. Roger, he said, was a hit
songwriter of huge talent. Why is he playing here and now was the
question - 'because this is Nashville and that's the way it is' came
the reply. Roger was at least given the stage to himself and was indeed
a wonderful songwriter. Our turn was next..... The bar had now started
to fill up and our first 'in the round' experience was about to begin.
In our round was Bob Cheevers, Us and Joe Bidewell (another songwriting
buddy of Bobs) playing in just that order, Bob and husband lead things
off and got our round off to a great start, we opened with 'Older',
following with 'Shameless' and 'Gone' then it was Joes turn and back
to the start with Bob again. As with all things anticipated, the time
on stage seemed to fly by. We did however seem to get a very favourable
response by the crowd - and by the host Debi who hugged me tightly
and told me we could 'come back and play here anytime honey' - which
was nice!!! Pat - a large bearded Tennessee fella that you wouldn't
wanna argue too hard with, insisted on buying the English girl a drink
(husband had to buy his own for some reason). Pat likes English accents
apparently and knew several other great places to go that would appeal
to a lady English songwriter. We also met again with Gary Kavanaugh
one of the songwriters from the Ash Street party with a couple of
his buddies. One of the highlights of the evening (apart from us'all
and Roger Ferris of course) was the 'chick singer' round of which
a larger than life artist called Lisa Carver was definitely the star.
Great southern sexy voice, huge personality and very talented songwriter
(husband thought quite attractive as well it seems - wife couldn't
possibly comment!!!) - her song 'Unhip Holly' is a classic that will
endure. Seriously, excellent stuff - she's got to make the trip to
the UK so we can all share. The bar was packed by the end of the evening
and Bob's wonderful cool new friend Alice was there to hear the show
- Alice is a very sweet little 'ol lady, brimming with positivity
and love of life who told us all about her comedy routine involving
a cartwheel (human not wood) a fake urine bag and some apple juice
mixed with detergent (so it froths nicely of course). Alice invited
us to stay at the 14 bedroomed mansion in Kentucky where she lives
and also houses her 9 cars. We loved Alice and seriously plan to visit
her at the first chance we get - everyone should have an 'Alice' in
their lives.
Friday
23rd
Today dawns bright and sunny, which is a relief as the skies have
been overcast since we arrived after a tornado which came and left
just before we hit town. Bob is coming with us today and we all plan
another touristy type trip to a re-created historic main street, with
jail, bank and other attractions including a robbery that takes place
about the same time everyday. First though, we stop at a drive-through
bank, which looked a bit like a petrol station. This is an amazing
concept to us and seemed like a good idea until you realise that the
queues are just as long, it's just that people get to sit in their
cars instead of stand in a building. We gave up - as you do. Bob then
introduced us to his favourite Mexican restaurant it is was getting
on for lunchtime. Husband starts grunting in grumpy fashion, Mexican
is NOT his favourite food. Husband can only take so many beans in
one week and reached his limit two days ago. Decides on guacamole
and salad - restaurant owner sniffs in disgust and shakes his head.
Husband pouts (he'll deny this but don't believe him!!). He cheers
up however when he discovers a previously uncharted music shop three
doors down. It WAS actually cool mainly due to the fact it had a small
concert room with stage, P.A. and lights off to one side. We are impressed
enormously by this idea - Wife rants about the presence of her pet
hate - bright orange Gretch guitars with gold machinery - men non-plussed
at why this should matter - Duh!! Lunch over, we head for the village,
this time Bob is in charge of the 'Nashville and surrounding district'
map. He doesn't fare much better than I did. We reach the village
quite sometime later than intended - it closed 5 minutes ago - husband
quite rightly explains to wife at length that she should have double
checked the opening hours - wife pouts!!!! We detour to wander around
the Lebanon Cedar Park for a while - with wife wondering why communing
with nature would preclude building a teashop of any sort. Calls a
friend in London (on tri-band mobile) to discuss this, current welfare
of dog and state of the world back home in general. Men regard this
with disgust - wife doesn't care one bit. This evening though, is
something we have been looking forward to. Bob's friend Craig Caruthers,
a very talented writer and musician is hosting his first songwriter
night at the Bluebird. Joining him on stage were Mike Reid who wrote
'I can't make you love me' for Bonny Raitt, Tony Arata who wrote 'The
Dance' Garth Brook's huge hit and a new writer Barry Dean of whom
great things are expected. The Bluebird was packed and the room was
buzzing with expectation of a great night. No one was disappointed,
once again an evening of hugely talented people. Great song after
great song floated around the room as the guys, played, sang and joked
making fun of each other and themselves in between songs. Frankly
it can leave one a little 'wobbly' and certainly as a writer it is
a sobering experience to listen to a person play the songs he/she
has written with the stories that accompany them, that have become,
in some cases, part of public consciousness. Inspiring, but definitely
sobering. Bob Cheevers explained it well, saying it was like being
an aspiring boxer thinking about getting into the ring with Mike Tyson
- yup that about sums it up.
Saturday
24th
It's a wonderful sunny day and we decide to go off for a drive and
see where things take us. Today is a bit of a mystery, we've nothing
definite planned and we're at a bit of a loose end. After a quick
trip over to the Mall to buy socks (OH the rock 'n roll life style
we lead) - Husband looks in the 'Nashville Scene' newspaper for inspiration
and sees a benefit concert that night being held in The Ryman Auditorium
featuring Vince Gill, Amy Grant, Rodney Crowell and Emmylou Harris.
Wife looks in guidebook for something to do with the day - we decide
to visit the Cheekwood Botanical Gardens, which is the perfect thing
to do on a sunny day. We book the tickets for the show that night
and off we go. We arrive at the Ryman to find out the reason why we
had be able to get tickets so late is because the locals obviously
know the seating plan better than we do and avoid those seats like
the plague. The Ryman seats are set curved back from the stage in
a semi-circle with wrought-iron pillars spaced amongst the seats supporting
the mezzanine seating above. If you happen to find yourself on one
end extreme of the semi-circle you are almost at a right angle to
the stage and much of the stage is out of sight as a result. The locals
of course know this and now, so do we. The show was to raise money
for a dental clinic that charges 20% of the usual rate and is aimed
at people of can't get or can't afford dental insurance. We take so
much for granted here in the UK and we counted ourselves lucky that
we can get amazing levels of treatment as a right here. One musician
we spoke to said it had cost him $12,000.00 when his wife had their
first baby. With this in mind we stopped grumbling about our seats
and gave generously. The show was OK - but a little slow. The material
was rather too middle-of-the-road for the Haves's personal choice
and afterall this was Saturday night in Nashville. Decided to leave
in the break, feeling we'd seen that, been there, had the Ryman experience
and needed to find something with a bit more energy. We decided to
walk down onto Broadway and cruise a bit. Broadway is at it's best
on Saturday night - during the day it can have the vibe of Blackpool
on a wet Whitsun weekend but things get MUCH better when night falls.
The streets were packed, the neon lights were glowing and music -
mainly traditional country of course was echoing out of every bar.
We eventually decided to call in to Roberts bar before heading back
and watch the crowd dancing and the band all playing at the usual
top speed and hustling the crowd for tips as they do every night.
It just seemed to fit the bill for a Nashville Saturday night experience.
Sunday
25th
It's raining this morning but we've no plans to go out for a while
as, an old friend of Bobs - Rand Bishop is going to visit on his way
back from church. We wish we'd made the trip to the church with him
as it sounded so cool and he said he'd meant to call us and take us
over but got waylaid and had to go straight there. The church he goes
to is an interdenominational church and has a great house band and
they play any music that they feel is inspirational - could be anything
from Gospel to the Beatles. We think this sound fabulous. Nashville,
we learn, is the Church capital of the US and most of them have bands
of one sort of another so it's actually a good source of gigs for
those thousands of muso's out there. Rand is a great guy and has an
amazing story - after some initial success as a songwriter he hit
a long lean period which ended in him giving up songwriting completely
and for about 2 years was out of the music business. Rand then gets
a call from a ex co-writer of his to say that Toby Keith's producer
likes one of their songs and is going to play it to Toby's manager.
Toby's manager also loves the song and plays it to Toby. Toby doesn't
really like the song, but the manager and the producer persevere.
It takes another 18 months and Toby eventually records the song. The
song then makes the album and the record company loves it. The song
- called 'The List' gets released as the single and becomes the biggest
selling country hit of last year. Rand sat at the table in Bob's house
with a copy of a book that has recently been launched, which is filled
with the song lyrics and concepts along with lush looking glossy colour
photos. The book explores the songs message of really living life
not just going through the motions day to day as it's theme and Rand
is justifiably proud. We sit and discuss Nashville writing theory
and Rand likens it to writing a 'Hiku' which is a tightly formatted
type of Japanese poetry, we talk about the difference between writing
a good song and a great song and how writing a great song is not something
even the professionals can control -the professionals will almost
always write a good song - but a great song - it's in the lap of the
gods, guess that's one of the reasons there so many churches in Nashville
!! Bob is not coming to The Bluebird with us for our maiden flight.
He is going with his girlfriend Sharon to see The Eagles who are playing
in Nashville that night clashing with OUR gig ! Mind you at £150 a
ticket (special treat from her) it might put off a few floating fans
who then might choose our night instead eh? The Bluebird Cafe was
packed when we arrived and we just managed to squeeze in with a family
of six who immediately introduced themselves, shook hands and welcomed
us to their table - very nice!! This particular show at the Bluebird
is featuring artists that have managed to pass the audition night
that is held each week. I remembered Gary Kavanaugh from the Ash Street
party telling us he'd been doing the audition night for two years
and had just got through, the big bearded Pat had a similar story.
One artist announced a group of his fans had driven 10 hours to see
his set at the Bluebird (cheers from the crowd) and they were driving
back after the gig. (note to UK fans - next time you don't go to a
gig because it's an hours drive away and there's something good on
the tele. - BE VERY ASHAMED !!) Soon it was our turn. We were breaking
all the rules - starting with a brand new song called 'My Chair' that
we'd never played live before. I had played the song a couple of days
before to Bob and he said it would be great if we could do that at
The Bluebird - so we did! Went really well though and far too soon
we'd finished our set and were back sitting with our 'new family'.
These shows always have guest artists who come on to do a 20-minute
slot at the end. Tonight we had Bob Regan, a fine pro songwriter who
reeled of hit after hit in impressive style. He stopped Geoff after
the show to tell him how much he enjoyed his playing and chatting
to him it turns out not only is he a good friend of our Bob Cheevers
but his wife is from Yorkshire - see it is a small world. After the
show we actually sold a couple of CD's and signed a couple of autographs
which was nice and gave one as a present to our adoptive family for
being so supportive in our hour of need. There are certain groups
of people who seem to run into each other wherever they are - and
one of those groups is English Northerners. Bob Regans wife is from
somewhere in Yorkshire, my husband is from Manchester and Emma Fox
the Bluebird waitress is a long way from home (Liverpool). Emma told
us how she came out to Nashville under sponsorship from a Sony producer
and subsequently got publishing and recording deals with Sony Tree.
Unfortunately Sony Tree has gone though a huge shake-up and Emma's
A&R guys and therefore her deal were lost, which is why she's back
working at the Bluebird (which has spawned many very successful artists
from the ranks of it's bar and waiting staff by the way). It was very
nice to meet her and wish we could have met sooner in the visit -
but email is a great thing and we've already 'spoken' since. So our
Bluebird experience was over - great show, good music and lovely people
- who hopefully will become friends?
Monday
26th
Our last full day and we'd made plans to try and meet up in the afternoon
with Charlie White the guitarist who had produced Bob's last album.
He was putting together a studio on Music Row and we were interested
to see how it was coming on. Rand had told us we should go and check
out the 'Opryland Hotel' out by the airport. At first we were a bit
unsure as to why this should be interesting but he told us it was
the largest indoor hotel garden complex in the USA (maybe the world)
and it really was worth a trip out there. So looking for something
silly to do before meeting up with Charlie we headed off to Opryland.
It was indeed worth the visit with 3 themed areas covering about 9
acres of lands each with huge waterfalls and gardens with bars and
restaurants set amongst them and balconies overlooking the scene.
We even took a boat trip around the Delta waterway travelling in and
out of fountains and through the hotel recreation of the Mississippi
delta complete with appropriate plant life. We even enjoyed the dancing
fountains that are saddled forever with dancing to the theme from
Starwars (a bit out of place in the Mississippi Delta - but maybe
that's just quibbling). We had lunch in the back in Cascades quadrant
with a bottle of Tennessee Blackberry Wine - which was kinda like
sloe gin - yummy!!!! Feeling rather mellow, we left for our meeting
with Charlie who as Bob promised was a lovely chap and a pleasure
to meet with. We met at the United Artists Tower on Music Row - sounded
impressive but is in truth kinda rundown and past it's prime. Charlie's
studio is on the top floor and we heard the story of how he and his
partner manhandled the enormous radio station sound control-mixing
desk still hot-wired to it's equally enormous patchbay and managed
to wedge it into the lift. They kept the doors open with a wedged
in tabacco tin that trembled everytime someone below attempted to
summon the lift - he said he still can't bear to think about what
could have happened if the doors had managed to shut and the lift
had left with half his life inside. Charlie played some tracks by
a new artist he was recording in a colleagues studio one floor down.
The lad was ripped off by a less scrupulous neighbour and was playing
for his recording time by working fixing up the studio owners tour
coach. That night (we hoped) we had booked in to play at 12th and
Porter a songwriter night we had heard quite a lot about and really
wanted to do, especially as it was our last night. We were told that
it wasn't an open mike, but booked slots, so we had called the venue
earlier on in the trip to find out if we could play. We were told
that normally we would need to clear a CD through Danny the guy that
hosted the night but if we'd come in from London with an album it
would probably be fine. Haves's do not like 'probably be fine', we
offered to bring a CD in but was told Danny would not be in till Monday
anyway and his mobile phone numbers were not given out - just come
along at 8pm. Try to call several times that day to double check,
but no answer - so at 8pm wife goes into bar to find place completely
empty apart from bored barman and even more bored soundguy. Now it
could be true that we are just 'out of the loop' as far as writers
night/open mike etiquette goes but nothing ventured.... Wife tries
to find out if we are indeed on to play - and the conversation went
like this: (Wife) Could you check the list for tonight for a please
I'd like to check if we're down to play? (S/guy) Dunno - Danny doesn't
get here till 10pm. (Wife) We were told to get here at 8pm why would
that be? - (S/Guy) Dunno. (Wife) -Is there a list? (S/Guy) There's
always a list (Wife) Do you have to sign up on the night or is it
booked in advance? (S/Guy) You'll have to talk to Danny about that.
(Wife) Could I give him a call, so we could find out? We'd like ask
if he is expecting us - we're in from London and did call in the week
and were told it should be OK to play but they'd check it out with
him. (S/Guy) - No! He doesn't like people phoning him. (Wife) - Could
you call him then? (OK it was a silly question but wife was feeling
belligerent) (S/Guy) - No! It was the right time to leave. Wife was
feeling like the 'special' relationship between our two countries
so much heavily publicised between Tony B. and George W. had obviously
just not seeped this far down the food chain. Wife does not like being
given run-around and had a sneaking feeling this was the most fun
S/Guy had had all day. The will to play was fast disappearing as sound
guy and wife were so much not seeing eye to eye that any chance of
a positive musical experience was becoming minimal. Wife decamped
back to car and reported to husband. Husband elected not to give up
right away and sit outside for a while until something started happening.
At the sight of another lost soul walking guitar in hand towards the
bar, wife leaps out of the car and accosts the poor lad wanting to
know if he knew anything about how the evening worked. He didn't!
He also didn't know if he was playing either, he did say though, that
in the 2 weeks he had been in Nashville, he had cleared every room
he had played in so far. He'd been told that the 12th and Porter was
probably the most sympathetic crowd Nashville would have to offer
for his type of music so he was trying it out. Finding out we were
from London he fondly remembered a pub called The Monarch in Camden
Town where he had gone down a storm. Wife, you may be surprised to
know has also played The Monarch (albeit some time ago and with a
very different hairstyle) so knew the crowd well and it wasn't good
news for this evening. Then we caught sight of some rather large tattooed
chaps wheeling in gear from a very rock 'n' roll funky looking van
- we suddenly lost the will to live - or found it ! Somewhere else
was looking better - so we headed for...somewhere else. So there we
were on a Monday night - our last night in Nashville - and no-where
to play. We checked for another writers night but none could be found
and it was probably too late to play anyway. We headed on down to
Broadway to get a beer, a little dejected it must be said. On Broadway,
the endless country music had lost the charm that the Saturday night
crowd of babes, cowboys (both the apparently real and weekend variety)
and tourists brought. We wandered into a bar called 'The Stage' that
looked a bit different from the others. Suddenly things looked up.
'Today I started loving you again' not country this time, but as a
soul/gospel arrangement. The four musicians on stage were a funky,
tight, obviously well worked unit. All three front guys were great
singers all have great solo voices and sung fabulous group harmonies,
and the whole thing was as solid and confident as it could be. Playing
what husband said was in the style of 'Alman Brothers' type stuff
(new to wife but not to the rest of the civilised world apparently).
They were not only excellent players but pretty good songwriters as
well - playing excellent soul/pop type ballads, which they announced
as original tunes. Everyone including us was into it and the atmosphere
was great. The band was called The Blue Healers (how apt) and pretty
soon S/Guy was a distant memory.Wife had another margarita, husband
had another beer and guess what - we even danced!!
Tuesday
27th
Time to say goodbye for now anyway - Bob will be heading our way in
month or so for his next European tour. Time for us only to work out
how to get the lamp and various largish other items from Interiors
shops around Franklin into our already stuffed cases and to pick up
a couple of bottles of Tennessee Blackberry wine before we were on
our way. Or that's what wife was lead to believe - but not yet. One
thing remained on the list, husband had already checked ahead to make
sure was his quarry was open for business. He had checked timings
to make sure it was in aeroplane catching distance. The final conquest
- that one elusive music shop was in sight. This is beyond a joke
now you're thinking, this is no longer funny - and you'd be right,
it was not funny at all, but wife had given up the fight, having gone
way beyond the music retail pain barrier.so, without argument or giving
any indication of concern for husbands sanity - she consulted once
more, the 'Nashville and surrounding district' map and set off, at
his side, hot on the last trail of the final perfect guitar shop experience.
We found the road listed in the index of the map and much to husbands
joy, not too far from the airport. After driving around a suburban
housing estate for some time, we found the road or lane as it actually
was with small rather battered houses that backed onto a lake as the
road got narrower and narrower. This is a strange place for a music
shop wife ventured as we came to what definitely seemed to be the
end house. The road was blocked by a large lorry and equally large
driver who glared suspiciously at us as we attempted to squeeze the
hire car into a 3 point turn on the single track road. Better call
him again muttered husband getting unsettled by the proximity of the
big lorry and driver in the small lonely lane. It turned out the 'Nashville
and surrounding districts' map had had it's final revenge. There were
actually two roads that both had the same name. One that housed the
music shop over one end of town and one that didn't on the other end
of town (near the airport) and we, as you've now guessed, were in
the latter. The final perfect guitar shop experience would have to
wait as we headed towards the our journey home - wife quietly safe
in the knowledge, even at Nashville airport there are absolutely no
guitars for sale ANYWHERE. It was a good trip - wife will return maybe
solo next time to meet up with and (maybe even write with) some of
the various friends we made along the way and perhaps learn more about
the mysterious art of Nashville songwriting. Our material and playing
was well received, we sold some CD's and we've got a wallet with numbers
to call next time round. We watched, met and talked with some amazing
musicians and songwriters and came away having learnt a lot more about
the real Nashville and the way it works than we ever knew before,
can't really ask for more than that in one trip can you? Anyway one
of us has to go back, we bought this great map and it would be a shame
to waste it......